Leading the charge for SIHH 2016 H Moser Novelties is a superlative timepiece which marks the 10th anniversary of the world’s simplest perpetual calendar, this time updated with artistic flourish celebrating their exceptional heritage – introducing the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition.

The original 19th century H. Moser & Cie pocket watch which marked an important artistic milestone in the Schaffhausen manufacture’s 187 years history.

Origins of the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition

Based on an original H. Moser pocket watch dating from the late 19th century, the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is an alchemical distillation of H. Moser & Cie’s 187 years of watchmaking technical expertise combined with high European artistry evolving fine engraving and enameling expertise.

The striking blue engraved enamel with diamond studs is replicated to a faithful degree, eschewing the central crown and ring architecture of the inspirational pocket watch for vintage wire lugs similar to wristwatches of the era.

The new Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with Savonette style case, leads as flagship of SIHH 2016 H Moser novelties.

While the Savonette style case is not going to be popular with everyone, there’s no denying that the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition stands as flagship amongst SIHH 2016 H Moser novelties.

The Schaffhausen Manufacture re-interpreted the heritage piece in 46mm x 13.6mm 18k red gold case featuring cloisonné enamel on a case with either side of the watch is a cover with hand-engraved, guilloché decoration, extending up the side of the case. These have then been enamelled, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship, and set with 28 diamonds totalling 0.31 carats on the dial side. A simple push-button mechanism opens the upper case cover much in the way as a vintage pocket watch would.

The manually wound hand-wound HMC 341 movement was originally conceptualised by Andreas Strehler. In addition to possessing the lauded double hairspring innovation, it is also one of a handful perpetual calendars which can be set forwards and backwards at any time without damaging the movement.

As fitting for such an exemplar of high horology, the original Straumann Double Hairspring makes an appearance in the H Moser Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition. Developed by Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of H. Moser, double hairspring architecture was an ingenious answer to the issues which tourbillon escapements attempted to solve. Theoretically, the double hairspring would oscillate in opposite directions, one on top of the other, cancelling errors in each hairspring thus providing superior chronometry; it is so named for Professor Reinhard Straumann, inventor of the Nivarox alloy.

When it debuted in 2007, critics were concerned that shock could potentially result in the dual hairsprings ending in entanglement with each other but close to 10 years field testing has already shown that the risk is minimal.

SIHH 2016 H Moser Novelties

For its inaugural debut at SIHH 2016 H Moser put up a strong showing, beginning with a subtle dig at the Apple Watch and then unveiling several high profile statement pieces which emphasized the Schaffhausen Manufacture’s competence in the field of high horology. My favourite? The Concept Funky Blue.

The rose gold model of the H Moser Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue boasts a braided brown crocodile strap, whereas the white gold version is paired with a hand-buffed kudu leather strap

Get Funky with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept

It’s become a growing past time of horological aficionados to play “watches at 10 paces”. Naturally, some timepieces with signature design elements like the Royal Oak’s octagonal portholes to Breguet’s coin edge case and guilloche dial are easy calls but the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue unveiled as part of SIHH 2016 H Moser Novelties ups the ante significantly.

Almost all identifying elements have been stripped away – iconic numerals, the shield logo and even the brand name; All that remains is the pure essence of what makes H Moser, H Moser- cue mirror polished leaf hands, refined tapered central seconds and yes, that delectable cerulean blue fumé dial which H Moser & Cie have dubbed “funky” – it’s a sunburst dial with applied sfumato effect,evidence of attention to detail on a dial almost bereft of details; but it is not the sole signature element. Also making an appearance, that undeniably Moser touch: sculpted case mid with satin-brushed finishing.

The reverse side of the H Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept displays an equally recognisable movement, thanks the the interchangeable escapement module and the easily identifiable tension spring for the sweep seconds pinion which regulates the tremendous forces being transmitted through the gear to the central seconds.

Extra Large serving of Venturer Small Seconds

With its pure lines, curved hands, crystal and dial, and an offset small seconds, the Venturer collection was a symbol of the maison’s dedication to purity. While the fore mentioned Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept definitely stands out from SIHH 2016 H Moser Novelties in terms of watchmaking purity, the Venturer’s identity as an iconic, convex shaped timepiece inspired by design elements from the 1960s and the historic pocket watches by H. Moser & Cie. made it the perfect candidate to receive an update.

Introduced as part of SIHH 2016 H Moser Novelties, The Venturer Small Seconds XL in white gold is paired with a sky-blue fumé dial and a kudu raw leather strap.

For SIHH 2016, the XL model of the Venturer Small Seconds retains the proportions of the original first introduced in 2014; carrying the mantle for the Schaffhausen firm as a younger, modern, more irreverent version (because it disobeys the classic dimensions of its predecessor while keeping traditional watchmaking elements).

The refined, elegant bezel of the H Moser Venturer Small Seconds XL offers a clear view of the curved dial, accentuating its colour along with the baton indices and tapered leaf-shaped hands, which are key features of H. Moser & Cie.’s identity. The dial’s sunburst pattern brings an exceptional depth to the fumé effect, highlighted by its electric blue colour.