Chain Reaction: Watches with Chained Complications

Are modern watchmakers gluttons for punishment? Thanks to the passion of a few watchmakers, we get to enjoy the intricate mechanisms of complications almost forgotten and tiny oft-missed detail in the simple things (like bracelets).

Where was England in the mid-16th century?

Nowhere; They were laggards in a naval race with the Spanish and the Portuguese, there were European superpowers and the English were simply not one of them, watching in envy as gold, spices and silks entered markets in Lisbon and Cádiz, painful historical irony of an island nation with no standing navy. They say, “love makes the world go around,” but the inauspicious beginnings for Imperial Great Britannia would go beyond love, it would begin with a spirit of endeavour – the love and embracing of technological innovations that would have the face of the earth forever: dawn of the marine chronometer.

Whosoever commands the sea, commands the trade; whosoever commands the trade of the world commands the riches of the world and consequently, the world itself.”
– Sir Walter Raleigh

Love for God, King and Country

In the time before SAT NAV , the lack of precision in any shape or form when it came to calculating longitude on the open seas plagued human maritime efforts for thousands of years. It’s a cost best exemplifed with the Scilly naval disaster of 1707: the loss of four British Royal Navy vessels off the Scillian Isles still counts as one of the worst maritime disasters in history, over 1400 lives lost due to navigational error. For four days, dead sailors would continue to wash on shore and while tragic, it led to the formation of the Longitude Act in 1714.

As opposed to latitude, precise longitudinal calculations were nigh impossible with astronomical techniques, the best way, it was deemed, was to have accurate time on ship relative to the home port. The Earth takes 24 hours to revolve 360 degrees, thus it stands to reason that travelling 15° Eastbound or Westbound moves local time either an hour ahead or an hour backwards. Thus, knowing local time and time at origin, a competent navigator could determine geographic location with simple mathematics and accurate timekeeping.

It was a gauntlet accepted by the academic and scientific establishment but it would take a countryside carpenter by the name of John Harrison to best the intellectual elite. Granted, the father of the precision marine chronometer was not the inventor of the fusée and chain mechanism, but he would be the one to put it to the best use in his H4 chronometer. The fusée and chain was groundbreaking. First seen in Brunelleschi and Da Vinci’s manuscripts in the 15th century was a concept which improved isochrononism in timekeeping by maintaining even torque as the mainspring ran down. It would be a complication that would see use till the early 20th century before its abandonment due to the expense of build, difficulty in adjustment and the complexity in servicing should either the mainspring or fusée chain break. The invention of the going barrel sealed its fate in all but marine chronometers where the highest precision was still required before they were phased out in the 1970s.

“Perhaps no problem in mechanics has ever been solved so simply and perfectly.”
– Sir Gawaine Baillie

The Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot

Given the myriad of advances in mechanical watch technology including adoption of high efficiency silicon escapements, the modern mechanical timepiece is light years ahead in terms of accuracy, as compared to its 16th century counterpart. That said, the foundations for modern horology were also built upon the backs of men with vision akin to John Harrison.

Celebrating Zenith’s 150th anniversary, the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot is so named for its founder and aptly so. It is a symbol of haute de gamme watchmaking built upon the founder’s dream – production of accurate pocket watches using only in-house parts. He was authoritarian but far sighted, taking industrial know-how from the North Americans and importing automated machines, which provided the fledgling manufacture with a foundation of flawlessly fitting components. The level of machine-driven precision allowed for quick repairs and more importantly, allowed the firm to produce some of the most accurate on-board clocks and chronometers, and the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot builds upon that tradition par excellence in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

The high frequency El Primero movement serves ably as a base for the 4810 calibre with no loss of COSC-certified performance or power reserve- it is indisputable testimony to the prowess of a manufacture which has acquired 300 patents, 600 movement variations and 2,333 prizes in the field of chronometry (precision timekeeping) since its founding. In the face of such achievement, it’s easy to rest upon one’s laurels and in light of that, why attempt a complex mechanism already relegated to a celebrated place in history? Love.

A culmination of two years of research and development, the fusée and chain mechanism compensates for the progressively reduced force of a barrel in enthropic progress. The helical shape of its fusée alleviates loss of amplitude keeping the driving force perfectly stable, even as the spring winds down. The transmission chain between barrel and fusée is a wonder upon itself, built with alternating double and intermediate links to create a high tensile chain comprising 575 parts and the ability withstand an over three-kilo traction force. The fusée stem is structurally complex, allowing the fusée to distribute force evenly to the going train and then silicon escape wheel by adjusting according to the variation in tension; thanks to the shaped window in the upper dial, the feature is one which will immediately capture connoisseurs and civilian admirers. The power reserve display between 4 and 5 o’clock is labelled with the raison d’etre of the whole endeavour: “Force constante” (or Constant Force) and “High frequency”- a true labour of love from one of the most underrated manufactures of our time.

Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon

Breguet innovations litter the text of many watch brochures for the simple reason that A. L. Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon was one of watchmaking’s most prolific and prodigious individuals. His namesake Maison continues his tradition for trailblazing solutions to horology’s fundamental problems, first by releasing new interpretations of the crucial balance spring, following their founder’s pioneering attempts at producing balance springs which could provide unwavering regular oscillations. Experimenting with gold springs to counter oxidation, clyindrical springs for greater isochronism by repoising its centre of gravity, even altering the terminal curve by bending it into the distinct “Breguet overcoil” and obviously, his opus, the tourbillon. Following his spirit and passion, 2006 saw the modern Maison introduce the silicon balance spring and escapement. Impervious to magnetic fields, built according to precisely calculated models, lighter thus less prone to deformation from gravity and extremely shock resistant, the innovation was released to great criticism from diehard traditionalists. Less than a decade later, adoption of this materially new balance spring continues unabated.

Within Breguet’s Tradition 7047PT, an alchemy of modern material technology and heritage watchmaking combines into potent construct: silicon escapement assortment is built into signature tourbillon and fusée and chain transmission, a modern rendition of Breguet’s first tourbillon equipped pocket watch. Technically sophisticated, Manufacture Breguet’s love for watchmaking has led to a stunning multi-patent calibre – several for the large tourbillon resonator at 1 o’clock, one for the on-barrel power reserve indicator, another for the titanium balance and three others, just for the silicon balance springs. No greater drive for horological research and development can be found other than from within the beating heart of the undisputed pioneer of superlative horology.

When First Modern Diving Watch meets Flyback Chronograph

If there’s an important element of a great love story, it certainly must involve the painful enduring of a long separation. For Blancpain, no greater tale can be told. For over 60 years, the Fifty Fathoms would be a name synonymous with the modern dive watch. Built as an automatic mil-spec according to the demands of legendary diver Robert Maloubier of the French Navy, the Fifty Fathoms was a reliable, remarkable piece of micro-machinery capable of withstanding the rigors of modern Post-World War II combat and depth rated of at least 50 fathoms (over 90 metres), at the time of its birth in 1953, it was a new depth record for a wristwatch.
Yet, the vicissitudes of life as a commercial watchmaker would see the Maison lie dormant for a time until Jean-Claude Biver would absorb another famed manufacture into the fold – Frederic Piguet. Their claim to fame? The world’s thinnest handwound chronograph Calibre 1180. A risk especially, when you consider that in 1987, we were right in the middle of a little thing known as the Quartz crisis. Their acquisition in 1992 by the Swatch Group paved the way for the joining of two Houses and the preservation of traditional watchmaking; by 2010, Manufacture Blancpain arose with new mission, to usher a new age of haute horlogerie and in a short four years, usher they did.

“It would be stupid if it couldn’t be used under water now wouldn’t it?”
– Vice President Marc Junod

(when asked if the chronograph could be safely activated while the Fifty Fathoms Flyback Chronograph was under water.)

The name remains, but instead of her Fifty Fathoms depth, Blancpain built a chronograph water resistant to 300 metres yet retaining all the delicious vintage traits of its reputed predecessor. And within its heart, lay the locus of passion, a true marriage between the best of two Maisons. The F385 flyback chronograph calibre within was a brand new movement rather than just modifications of the venerable Calibre 1185. Ground up, it’s a 1.5 ligne bigger than the 11.5 ligne Calibre 1185 and it beat at a high frequency 36,000 vph, outpacing its veteran cousin with only 21,600 vph. As most of you know, the original Fifty Fathoms was built with a Faraday cage but here, Blancpain adopted a free spring balance with silicon spring, making anti-magnetism an innate ability rather than one dependent on additional shielding. For chronograph lovers, the flyback chronograph is a symbol of refinement and competence for any brand worth its fame, no longer are multiple button presses required, a new timing operation is possible with just another push of the chronograph actuator, there’s no need for stop, reset and start. More importantly, it’s one of the few true dive chronographs ever to be made and a match made in Heaven if ever there was one.

Art piece first – Bulgari Octo in Steel

“At Bulgari, we are comfortable considering ourselves makers of fine jewellery and fine art first. Watchmakers second.” – CEO Jean Christophe Babin on whether he feels Bulgari’s reputation in jewellery outshines their competence in watchmaking.
When love is the guiding principle, even the simplest things can attract nigh obsessive behaviours. Think Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction and dial back the psychotic behaviour by a few notches and what we have is Bulgari’s masterful Octo. It is an exquisitely calibrated piece of design, a timepiece of high structured proportions with complex geometry and yet, given all the details already present in a luxury sportswatch, much of the real estate is given to the clean lines which separate the Octo’s 110 separate facets.

Hand finished to meticulous detail, the thin slivers of space for each facet or surface s given due consideration with alternating polished and brushed finishing that imbues the Octo with an otherworldly quality. From the blue lacquered dial to the hand applied rhodium facetted hour markers, no element is sparred adoring attention. It is this same devotion that artisans at Manufacture Bulgari apply assiduity to the calibre BVL 193 beating within as well and the pride is telling, as evidenced by the boutique displays with strategically placed mirrors that passers-by can cast gaze upon the reflected chamfered and polished edges of the bridges decorated with snailed Cotes de Geneve motifs, right down to satin-brushed wheels and polished pivots.

Love is paying attention to the little things –
Breitling Transocean Chronograph on Milanese Strap

During the Renaissance, the Italian City of Milan was home to Europe’s finest armourers, producing parade armour for the Holy Roman Emperor and the French and Spanish royal courts. It is heritage for fine filigree decoration and minute metalwork which has led the city, centuries on to become known for that little sliver of chainmail upon your wrist – you might know it by another name – the Milanese strap.

The fine knit metal may no longer be produced in its city of origin but its beauty goes beyond mere aesthetics. In a production process of up to 85 individual steps, the stamped sheet steel is surprisingly, more economical than the traditional steel bracelet but yet, because of its weave nature, is far stronger, earning it the honorific title of “shark-proof”. Today, it is the Germans who make the best Milanese bracelets and it is no coincidence that Breitling holds sway over Germany as well.

Much beloved in the Deutschland for its rugged, hyper functional aesthetic, Breitling’s Transocean Chronograph GMT is a timepiece not lacking in the area of refined details as well. First, a departure from the modified stock movements, the Transocean Chronograph GMT is now driven by a self-winding manufacture Breitling Calibre B04 with a patented second timezone mechanism: a simple forward or backwards crown adjustment to account for instantaneous accounting of date and time at new geo-location. In terms of aesthetics, the elegant guilloche dial adds final flourish to a clean dial with chronograph counters and red-accented GMT hand, a stark contrast to the complicated slide rule markings on Breitling’s iconic Navitimer.

The COSC-certified 28,800 vph chronograph with 70 hours power reserve and 24 hour 2nd timezone display is limited to 200 pieces.

Fin

From a zenith in man’s early maritime history to the slavish laboriousness in pursuits one can consider obsolete in the face of quartz and now micro-computing smartwatches, mankind has proven itself inexorably drawn to the assiduousness of an industry that would have been left behind in the era of the steam engine should we have been less sentimental. Instead, we are all bound by the industriousness of a few watchmakers whose earnest devotion to the craft has infected us with the most powerful emotion of all – love (and if not, lust).